Each Culinary Artist Should Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Secures Fourth on List of London’s Top Food Spots.
Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.
A Surprise Recognition
The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.
“I am completely astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.
A Charm of Simplicity
This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.
The Namesake Offering: Tantuni
However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.
It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.
The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.
Surpassing the Titans
Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.
A Creed of Hospitality
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Path of Perseverance
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.
A Accomplishment for the Community
This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.